Sooooo...this post has been a long time coming. I first started blogging about Arachnarok in 2011 and it is now 2013; that is not to say he never got finished, oh on the contrary he was done immediately and given to his rightful owner. I just have a tendency to SQUIRREL and then just completely SHINY forget what I was doing. Not to mention that I paint a lot of stuff in the course of a week and my little FUZZY KITTY brain just can't process that much all the time. But, here is the last installment for the Arachnarok as promised. Sorry to have kept you waiting.
Legs
Colors Used:
Carapace Colors -
- Base coat - Model Color, Red.
- Wash - Leviathian Purple in middle.
- Wash - Badab Black around spines.
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Red.
- Second highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Orange Yellow.
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| Used as the overall color and highlights |
Joint Colors -
- Base coat - Citadel, Hormagaunt Purple
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Hormagaunt Purple with Creamy Ivory added to achieve a moderately lighter shade. Could do a second highlight with a slightly lighter shade.
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| Used in the joints |
Techniques:
The shell of legs were based colored with
Red from Model Color (as was the entire carapace of the spider in previous tutorials). As you can see in the above picture, the Leviathan Purple wash was placed around the middle of each leg section and Badab Black wash was used immediately around each spike/horn. From the tip of each leg Leviathan Purple is drug up and while still wet Badab Black is added to the very tips.
Next,
Red from Cel-Vinyl is detailed on with a 10/0 liner brush. It is dotted carefully onto all the little raised bumps of the carapace, as well as trimming around the edges of the leg sections, and highlighting the spines.
Between the leg shell sections, in the
joints, it is painted Hormagaunt Purple just as the belly of the spider had been painted. They are then highlight with the purple mixed with creamy ivory until a lighter shade is achieved.
Then, as you can see in the picture above,
Orange Yellow from Cel-Vinyl is used as a second highlight on the section edges, the spine tips, cracks, and it is added only to the bumps on the very top of the leg sections nearest to the spines.
Horns and Spines
Colors Used:
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Burnt Umber
- First Highlight (Dallimored) - Reaper, Stained Ivory
- Second Highlight (Dallimored) - Reaper, Creamy Ivory
- Third Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, White
Technique:
The spines/horns are base coated with the
Burnt Umber. If you look at the picture below you can see the darkness poking out at the base of the horns. Then, with a 10/0 liner brush, paint delicately lines from the tip of the spine to the base with the
Stained Ivory. By doing it this way you ensure that the thicker portion of the line is at the tip and it becomes thinner as it travels to the base.
Do this again with the next color,
Creamy Ivory, making sure that you
are traveling over the original lines done with the Stained Ivory but
stop before coming to the end of the Stained Ivory line.
Finally, use
the
White to make the very tip of the horn stand out and appear shiny
and pointy. Using the same technique, draw the thin lines down toward
the base but stop only a 1/4 of the way down or so.
Fangs
Colors Used:
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Black
- First Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Gray 25
- Second Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Gray 5
- Third Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, White
Techniques:
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| Using Gray 25,a medium gray, add a delicate stripe that runs over the top of the fang's crescent shape. Also, trace along the underneath portion where there is an edge. |
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| With the Gray 5, a nearly white gray, very very lightly go over the original medium gray line that you drew in the first step. This line should be much thinner than the original line. |
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| Finally, using white, add an even thinner line that is intermittent, meaning that it doesn't need to be solid. This is to mimic shine or gloss. |
Log Base
Colors Used:
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Wood Gray
- First highlight (dry brushed) - Cel-Vinyl, Grayed Orange Yellow
Technique:
Simply base color the entire log with Wood Gray just as you had done for the scaffold system. Then, when dry, dry brush the Grayed Orange Yellow to catch the high-points of the log.
Goblins
Colors Used:
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Green
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Lemon Yellow
- Wash - Citadel, Thraka Green
Techniques:
The
goblins are painted with the Cel-Vinyl
Green. Then they are highlighted with the Dallimore method by only painting the high points with the
Lemon Yellow. After that dries I washed them entirely with Thraka Green so it would seep down into the cracks. You could try dry brushing the Lemon Yellow on but you run the risk of getting stray marks onto the log - so why bother. Their eyes are Red from Cel-Vinyl.
Skulls are painted using colors in a picture below. They are base coated in Stained Ivory, then highlighted with Creamy Ivory. When dry, a wash of Gryphonne Sepia is used to get into the sockets and cracks. Finally a highlight of White is lightly dry brushed on. One could skip the middle color, I just choose to use the white sparingly because I want them to look old. If you went straight into the white they will appear brighter and newer. Your choice.
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| For the mushrooms you can paint them any color you like. I just used a bright red and an orange in order to tie it in with the spider above it. I like to do that kind of thing. But, I'm sure that purple or blue shrooms would have been cool, even plain white ones, too. |
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| The baby spiders are painted exactly the same as mommy, only more simply since they are kinda tiny. |
Base coat the
baby spiders in the Model Color Red and then dot on the highlight of Red from Cel-Vinyl. I didn't bother to try to highlight with the Orange Yellow, they are much too small.
Spiderwebs are painted using colors in a below image. Coat the webs entirely in Bone Shadow and then highlight with Aged Bone and Polished Bone. Again, you could skip the middle color but I used the Polished Bone specifically just to run the very edges of the tops of the webs to make them pop. The Aged Bone goes over all the edges of the webs.
Scaffold, finishing touches
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| These colors are used for skulls and bones on the entire model, including the base. |
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| Used for all spider webs on the entire model. |
The scaffold is time consuming because of all the fiddly bits. Here is where you need to detail all the spider webs that are used to lash the scaffold together, complete the skulls and bones and lighten the sharp, pointy ends of the scaffold that stick out.
Notice in the images above and below that the
points of the scaffold are painted with Grayed Orange Yellow, they were also given a drybrushed highlight of Creamy Ivory (not shown in picture).
The
shields are done in Citadel Chainmail and washed with Devlan Mud or Badab Black.
Feathers are simplest done when painted solid white and washed with a diluted Badab Black, so that it forms a soft gray. Or, you can water down a gray paint until it becomes a wash.
Spiderweb lashings are painted Bone Shadow, washed with Devlan Mud, and very carefully detailed with a 10/0 liner brush with Polished Bone. I tried drybrushing them to make the process easier and quicker, but it looked too sloppy. Just take your time, make sure the Polished Bone is wet enough (but not too wet that it seeps between the strands). By ensuring that the paint is liquid enough you can make smooth lines quickly.
____________Finished Product____________
