Carapace Colors -
- Base coat - Model Color, Red.
- Wash - Leviathian Purple in middle.
- Wash - Badab Black around spines.
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Red.
- Second highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Orange Yellow.
|Used as the overall color and highlights|
- Base coat - Citadel, Hormagaunt Purple
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Hormagaunt Purple with Creamy Ivory added to achieve a moderately lighter shade. Could do a second highlight with a slightly lighter shade.
|Used in the joints|
The shell of legs were based colored with Red from Model Color (as was the entire carapace of the spider in previous tutorials). As you can see in the above picture, the Leviathan Purple wash was placed around the middle of each leg section and Badab Black wash was used immediately around each spike/horn. From the tip of each leg Leviathan Purple is drug up and while still wet Badab Black is added to the very tips.
Next, Red from Cel-Vinyl is detailed on with a 10/0 liner brush. It is dotted carefully onto all the little raised bumps of the carapace, as well as trimming around the edges of the leg sections, and highlighting the spines.
Between the leg shell sections, in the joints, it is painted Hormagaunt Purple just as the belly of the spider had been painted. They are then highlight with the purple mixed with creamy ivory until a lighter shade is achieved.
Then, as you can see in the picture above, Orange Yellow from Cel-Vinyl is used as a second highlight on the section edges, the spine tips, cracks, and it is added only to the bumps on the very top of the leg sections nearest to the spines.
Horns and Spines
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Burnt Umber
- First Highlight (Dallimored) - Reaper, Stained Ivory
- Second Highlight (Dallimored) - Reaper, Creamy Ivory
- Third Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, White
The spines/horns are base coated with the Burnt Umber. If you look at the picture below you can see the darkness poking out at the base of the horns. Then, with a 10/0 liner brush, paint delicately lines from the tip of the spine to the base with the Stained Ivory. By doing it this way you ensure that the thicker portion of the line is at the tip and it becomes thinner as it travels to the base.
Do this again with the next color, Creamy Ivory, making sure that you are traveling over the original lines done with the Stained Ivory but stop before coming to the end of the Stained Ivory line.
Finally, use the White to make the very tip of the horn stand out and appear shiny and pointy. Using the same technique, draw the thin lines down toward the base but stop only a 1/4 of the way down or so.
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Black
- First Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Gray 25
- Second Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Gray 5
- Third Highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, White
|Using Gray 25,a medium gray, add a delicate stripe that runs over the top of the fang's crescent shape. Also, trace along the underneath portion where there is an edge.|
|With the Gray 5, a nearly white gray, very very lightly go over the original medium gray line that you drew in the first step. This line should be much thinner than the original line.|
|Finally, using white, add an even thinner line that is intermittent, meaning that it doesn't need to be solid. This is to mimic shine or gloss.|
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Wood Gray
- First highlight (dry brushed) - Cel-Vinyl, Grayed Orange Yellow
Simply base color the entire log with Wood Gray just as you had done for the scaffold system. Then, when dry, dry brush the Grayed Orange Yellow to catch the high-points of the log.
- Base coat - Cel-Vinyl, Green
- First highlight (Dallimored) - Cel-Vinyl, Lemon Yellow
- Wash - Citadel, Thraka Green
The goblins are painted with the Cel-Vinyl Green. Then they are highlighted with the Dallimore method by only painting the high points with the Lemon Yellow. After that dries I washed them entirely with Thraka Green so it would seep down into the cracks. You could try dry brushing the Lemon Yellow on but you run the risk of getting stray marks onto the log - so why bother. Their eyes are Red from Cel-Vinyl.
|The baby spiders are painted exactly the same as mommy, only more simply since they are kinda tiny.|
Spiderwebs are painted using colors in a below image. Coat the webs entirely in Bone Shadow and then highlight with Aged Bone and Polished Bone. Again, you could skip the middle color but I used the Polished Bone specifically just to run the very edges of the tops of the webs to make them pop. The Aged Bone goes over all the edges of the webs.
Scaffold, finishing touches
|These colors are used for skulls and bones on the entire model, including the base.|
|Used for all spider webs on the entire model.|
The scaffold is time consuming because of all the fiddly bits. Here is where you need to detail all the spider webs that are used to lash the scaffold together, complete the skulls and bones and lighten the sharp, pointy ends of the scaffold that stick out.
points of the scaffold are painted with Grayed Orange Yellow, they were also given a drybrushed highlight of Creamy Ivory (not shown in picture).
The shields are done in Citadel Chainmail and washed with Devlan Mud or Badab Black.
Feathers are simplest done when painted solid white and washed with a diluted Badab Black, so that it forms a soft gray. Or, you can water down a gray paint until it becomes a wash.
Spiderweb lashings are painted Bone Shadow, washed with Devlan Mud, and very carefully detailed with a 10/0 liner brush with Polished Bone. I tried drybrushing them to make the process easier and quicker, but it looked too sloppy. Just take your time, make sure the Polished Bone is wet enough (but not too wet that it seeps between the strands). By ensuring that the paint is liquid enough you can make smooth lines quickly.